Thursday, June 05, 2008

Cruise News

A day in Dubrovnic

This is one of several Unesco World Heritage sites that Phil is writing about during our travels so we have a combination off interests – he is considering the various ways these sites could be used for educational opportunities while I am just the tourist.

We decided to walk around the walls for a start. After the bombings in the 1980’s they have been completely restored although there are still bulletholes in places and lots of bright new roofs on many of the buildings.

The views from the top of the walls are fabulous – both out to sea and across the city. The walk is moderately challenging – lots of climbing up and down steps as well as uneven stones so you need to stay alert.

We then went down in to the town for coffee – lots of people and very touristy. Then went into the Franciscan monastery which was cool and quiet – it says it has the oldest pharmacy in Europe as well as some interesting art and artifacts. Before we booked the cruise, I was planning to spend a week in Dubrovnic and a week further north on a beach. Paddy and Di said a day in Dubrovnic would be enough and they were spot on. It is a great place to visit but not to stay for long.

We sailed up the coast in the evening and the little islands along the coast look lovely.


A day in Santorini

We arrive at our destinations about 6am – perfect for doing an early morning walk around the jogging track on the top deck while watching the ship dock then breakfast on the back deck.

At Santorini we anchored in the caldera – the huge crater left by the massive volcano of ???? (must check this date) which blew the island apart leaving just a rim which is what remains today. It left a very dramatic landscape with sheer rocky cliffs on the volcano side tapering back to fertile farm land on the other. We took the ship’s lifeboats to the island and then a cable car up the cliff face – we wanted to take the mules but were too early. The cable car takes you to Fira, the main town in the centre of the island – very touristy and pretty tacky – some classy shops and restaurants. We hopped on a local bus to Oia on the northern tip of the island about 30 mins– if I were planning to stay on Santorini, this would be it. Stunning scenery, much quieter, and smaller and very beautiful. We had a coffee there and there took the bus back to Fira where we hopped on another bus that took us to the southern end of the island – the Red, White and Black beaches and the village of Akrotiri. For Aussies, the beaches are not very impressive but in the village we found a lovely taverna perched on top of the cliffs for lunch. We made a big mistake – we were the only people in the taverna of about 20 tables and took pity on the poor owner and ordered too many dishes from the menu – it was lovely food and we ate too much – fava bean soup, tomato and onion balls, potato gratin, cheesy patries. As a result we had to skip dinner and just eat a salad on deck that evening.

It is a stunningly beautiful island but I couldn’t see what you would do for an extended visit – we have spent 2 weeks on other Greek islands in the past– Kos and Corfu and had plenty to keep us interested but I think a day or two on Santorini would be plenty.



A day in Athens

Ever since I was 15 years old I have wanted to visit the Parthenon. Mr Sperring, our art and architecture teacher at Wavell High was really excited by it – and I caught the excitement. Even in its’ ruined state it retains the elegance of a beautifully designed building. Mr Sperring also told us about the mathematical precision of the design – the columns are very slightly concave and the steps taper to give the illusion of being exactly even. It was a pity to have to share it with quite so many people but that’s how it is.

Apart from the amazing ancient monuments we didn’t find Athens of great interest. The day was fairly hot – around 30 deg – with lots of smog and the shopping district seemed to look very similar to that of any big city so we gave it a miss and went back to the ship for a swim. This was the first of our organised shore tours with the ship and we promptly cancelled the others we had pre- booked. There wasn’t anything wrong with the tour except that we have been independent travelers for too long to enjoy being part of a coach load of 42 who has to wait for the last person all the time.

Capri



Our ship anchored at Naples and many of our shipmates went to Pompeii for the day but we'd been there some years ago so decided to do our own thing and took the jet hydrofoil to Capri - a few problems with that choice. I should have realised there might be issues when the crew issued sick bags to everyone before we left the dock. And my seasick tabs were back in our cabin. I manged to keep my breakfast safe for 45 minutes but then lost the lot just a few minutes shy of our destination. My Dad will be SOOOO pleased to hear I was seasick – he doesn’t like being the only one in the family to be afflicted.

The rest of the day was delightful – although I wasn’t sure why James and Fran went all that way for their honeymoon when the beaches of Oz are second to none. Capri is a stunning island however – I’ll try to insert some photos so you can see for yourself. We walked around quite a bit then took a bus up to Anacapri with a manic busdriver. The lady next to me was close to hysterical so I just kept telling her calmly that the driver must have been doing this for many years without incident so she needn’t worry. I hoped I was right.
This photo is for my sister and neice - they have a particluar affection for Limoncello - a speciality on Capri
Ate a VERY basic lunch expecting to lose it on the way back to Naples but in the end it was as calm as.

Naples


A day on the French Riviera
Our boat anchored of Villefranche near Nice for our last port of call before the end of our cruise. We have been in this part of France a few times before so took a local bus into Nice then another inland up the mountains to Vence – a beautiful little walled town now encircled with a larger modern town. Vence seems to have largely gone under the tourist radar so is a pleasant place to wander and people-watch without too many distractions. We spent an hour or so there then took another bus to St Paul de Vence which attracts tourists big time. We were here about 9 years ago and i don't remember it being so busy - maybe we were out of sseason or something. It must be a nightmare to live there. Lovely narrow cobbled streets choked with tourists – almost every shop is a gallery, restaurant or gift shop. It deserves its reputation though – it really is beautiful.A photo for Kimberley and Ginny - a St Paul de Vence cat.






Just to prove I am here and not just making all this up - the 'beach' at Nice

We are now in Barcelona and just love it. Will blog about it in a day or 2 as well as some of the other cruise news.

Friday, May 30, 2008

From Capri

Just a quick note - maybe I will get to update it later. Dubrovnic, Santorini and Athens were great - a day in each was enough. They each have amazing sites but the crowds can be oppressive until you get off the beaten track. Today we have been to Capri - so beautiful.


Dubrovnic Santorini




Athens




Phil on the Hill of Mars from which the apostle Paul delivered his sermon to the people of Athens.



Sunday, May 25, 2008

From the Med

I am in an Internet Cafe in Dubrovnic - I have a long newsy blog on my memory stick but cant open it + also a strange keyboard so here goes. We had a great week in Venice and I will include some photos so you get a feel for it.

There are 2 ways you can take a gondola in Venice - this is the usual way for tourista and costs around 100 euros an hour.

This is the other way on a public crossing of the Grand Canal and costs ,50 cents. You can see which one we did. Phil made a friend as well.
We took a ferry one dat to the islands in the lagoon - this is the ancient monastery on Torcello - wonderful mosaics - thanks for the tip Paddy and Di.












This is the lovely island of Burano with its lollypop houses

We had one VERY wet day and at high tide there was water everywhere.



This is the hospital in Venice which we DIDNT visit but our apartment was nearby - all we had to do was follow the OSPEDALE signs and we were home (almost )



Wonderful shopping opportunities - my sister would be in heaven. I bought a travel iron.







And lots of pretty young men.














Now we are cruising the Med and it is fabulous. An enorous boat - just like a 5 star hotel. Off to Santorini tonight. Love to everyone. Ciao
This is the blog I had meant to post but couldn't open at one of the internet cafes.
We are coming to the end of a delightful week in Venice. It is an amazing city – wonderful to visit but I wouldn’t want to live here. It is hard work getting around – lots of tourists in the popular areas during the day and climbing up and over the canals every few minutes. But it is beautiful.

When we were here last about 6 years ago we stayed in a hotel on the Grand Canal not far from St Marks – a great location but very busy. This time we had an apartment back in the residential area and got a much better feel for how the Venetians live. It had the advantage of being close to the only hospital in Venice – well signposted throughout the city – so we managed to find it fairly reliably. It is such an easy city to get lost in – a couple of times we started out with our map to go somewhere, only to discover half an hour later that we’d walked in a big circle and were no closer to our destination than when we began – not that it mattered too much – we were never in a hurry to get anywhere.

Mostly the weather was kind but on Tuesday it rained all day and at high tide in the afternoon the square at St Marks was more like a wading pool.


We had been to all the big landmarks on our last visit so didn’t go into most of them again. But we did visit the Peggy Guggenheim gallery and a number of lesser churches and galleries. For me a big delight of Venice is just watching the locals go about their business in this challenging city where everything is done on the water – all the deliveries, the garbage collection, the ambulance, the police, taxis, trademen – all come and go by water – I could sit and watch them all day – preferably while drinking a cup of coffee and eating one of their yummy custard filled pastries.

Each day we went to the nearby Rialto market for fresh fruit and salad – it is a delight to the eye and the tummy.

Window shopping is a pleasure – the Italians have a great eye for display and the windows are exquisite.

The young men are also very easy on the eye.

There are 2 ways to have a gondola ride in Venice. One is to hire a private gondolier by the hour for around 100 euros ( about $150) the other is to cross the Grand Canal on the public gondola for 50 euro cents. We did the latter – twice. This French lady let the romance of the ride into her blood as she snuggled up to Phil – he doesn’t look as if he minds.

One day we took a boat to 2 of the other islands in the Lagoon – Burano was once famous for it’s handmade lace ( but most of what is sold there now comes cheaply from Asia) and it’s lollypop coloured houses.


Then on to Torcello, which was the richest and most powerful island in the lagoon in the 10th century with 10,000 inhabitants. The population is now about 60 but it has the remains of a vast church complex including the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta with its amazing mosaics.

Our week in Venice is coming to an end and this is our home for the next 2 weeks. It is like a floating 5 star hotel – if last night’s dinner is anything to go by, we will have to make sure we get plenty of exercise to work of the meals – it was fabulous food. Today we are off to Dubrovnick.

Saturday, May 17, 2008

West and East from Seaford Head

























I hope you are not expecting me to keep blogging at this rate for the next 3 months. We've had a bit of spare time this week and easy access to the net - C & A have wireless broadband - must get it when we get home - it's great.

These are a couple of photos from our walk this morning - a cool overcast day but not too bad. The Seven Sisters are one of our favourite coastal vistas. C & A have just given me a huge photo of them printed on canvas for my birthday last Feb. It was taken in January with deep snow on the ground. It's lovely. No doubt you'll see it next time you visit our place.

We're off to Venice in the morning - we hope our luggage arrives with us this time.

Friday, May 16, 2008

A couple of interesting photos on our walk today around Newhaven Port - just along the coast from Seaford.

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Dramatic rescue at Seaford


Just east of Christy and Andy's are the dramatic white cliffs known as the Seven Sisters. We have walked along the top of them many times and, several times at low tide, along the accessible beaches at the base. C&A often kayak or sail with their friends Chris and Gabby to one of the inaccessable beaches beneath the cliffs for a picnic.

Last Saturday while C&A were away for the weekend, Chris and Gabby went on their own and were lying on the beach after lunch when a large chunk of rock gave way on the cliff above, landing on Chris' hip and hand. He was in severe pain and Gabby first pulled him away from the cliff in case more rock fell but then had to drag him back up the shingle as the tide came in. She eventually got the attention of some fishermen in a passing boat who called the coast guard but they couldn't get their boat close enough and called in the rescue helicopter. Chris was winched to safety on the clifftop and had surgery on his hand and hip and is making a good recovery. It could have been so much worse.

That'll be the end of their picnics beneath the cliffs and we'll keep further back from the edge when we are walking from now on - in the past we've often lain on the edge of the cliffs looking over the edge at the thousands of sea birds who hollow out nests in the chalk face - I guess we've done that for the last time. A couple of years ago a father and son were flying a kite on the clifftop and the dad stepped backwards over the cliff to his death. So sad in such a beautiful place.

Ginger Bread

For our study group suppers this year I have been making a cake - Dawn Waterhouse inspired me with her fabulous cakes over the years. My Orange and Poppyseed was delicious; the warm Pear with Cardamon was a winner but the Ginger Bread only scored 6/10. When we arrived at Christy's this week we had some of the gingerbread cake she had made on the weekend. It's sensational. Here is the recipe so I don't lose it and you can try it for yourself. One of the secrets is that the ground ginger must be fresh - it loses its zing pretty fast once opened.

Ingredients:
225 g plain flour
1 teasp mixed spice
3 teasp ground ginger
1.5 teasp bicarb soda
.5 teasp salt
85 g butter
85 g black treacle
85 g golden syrup
115g light brown sugar
1 medium egg
285 mls milk

Preheat oven to 180 C. Lightly oil 900g loaf tin and line base with baking paper.
Sift flour, spices, soda and salt in mixing bowl. Beat together egg and milk. Melt butter, sugar, treacle and syrup in saucepan, stirring till butter melted. Pour gooey stuff into flour then add egg and milk. Beat vigourously with wooden spoon till well mixed.
Pour into tin. Cook in middle of oven. After 25 mins cover cake with foil and return to oven for further 25 mins. Check if cooked. Leave in tin to cool. Once cool wrap in foul. ENJOY!!

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Slight change of plan


You will no doubt be imagining us walking along the ancient paths of the Cinque Terre in Italy - WRONG. We are at Christy and Andy's in Seaford and happily have now been reunited with our luggage. (Our friends Kay and Barry McGaw recently travelled for almost 4 weeks with only handluggage and that is starting to seem like a smart move.) All had been going so smoothly until we were delayed in Hong Kong by a sick lady who had to be taken off the plane to hospital. The hour 's delay meant we missed our connection in Helsinki and when we finally got to Heathrow much later that night our cases were nowhere to be seen. It is clearly not an uncommon occurrence going by the mountain of left luggage and that was just terminal 1.
We spent a night in a pleasant hotel (not worth 314 pounds for the night, though - hope the travel insurance comes good on that one) but reminded ourselves that we were far better off than the cyclone victims in Burma or the earthquake victims in China. It was clear by Tuesady morning that we would not get our luggage that day and didn't think it wise to fly to a samll village in Italy with just a change of undies and a spare shirt and hope that the luggage would catch up with us. We finally got our cases safe and sound on Wednesday and will stay here at Seaford till Sunday then fly direct to Venice for the next stage.
Christy going for her morning run


We are disappointed to miss the Cinque Terre but there will be other opportunities for that. In the meantime we are having a lovely time at Seaford - it feels like a home away from home and the weather was a balmy 22 deg yesterday - rain forecast today.
Andy ready for school. PS If the photo doesn't open, just click on it.